Sports Cycle

Don’t just think of Suzuki’s GSX-R600 as a single-minded, uncompromising sportsbike only suitable for riders in a hurry. The original 1997 model might have fit that bill, but since then it’s become more refined and usable. It’s even quite comfortable...

Following on from the successful launch of the GP racer-inspired GSX-R750WT in 1996, the first GSX-R600 arrived in dealer showrooms the following year.

Clothed in almost identical bodywork, the smaller carbed machine weighed 174kg, with its engine producing a maximum of 106bhp. That may have been impressive enough, but the peaky motor needed to be revved very hard to get it to produce anywhere near that; later, updated versions made 110bhp.

The bike was given a thorough makeover in 2001, with the 163kg machine featuring fuel-injection for the first time, while mid-range power was significantly improved, making the bike more rideable. Bar colour changes, the 600 then stayed pretty much the same until the 2004 season when another all-new version arrived. Bodywork was more sharply styled, a retuned engine made 120bhp and with a completely new chassis, including upside-down forks and radial calipers, cornering performance was boosted appreciably. Updates continued with an all-new bike arriving in 2006, with its even more tractable engine now making 125bhp.

The trend to improve the flexibility of the in-line four was repeated once more in 2008, with the freshly-styled GSX-R featuring a three-position power switch, adjustable footrests, electronic steering damper and slipper clutch. The final incarnation of the bike to date appeared in 2011.

Again the usability of the engine was boosted, though peak power stayed at 125bhp. Big piston forks improved handling, with braking getting a similar boost thanks to the fitment of one-piece monobloc calipers. Since then, the Suzuki has only changed its colour.

What's It Like To Ride

Context is an important word to consider when riding a 2002 GSX-R600. The machine being over 13 years old is something to particularly bear in mind. Do that and your expectations will be met by most aspects of the Suzuki’s performance, and happily exceeded by several others.

The engine and, more importantly the way it delivers its power, will easily be the most influential factor when it comes to making a decision on the suitability of the 600. There’s no doubt that back in 2002 it was fair to describe the in-line four-cylinder motor as flexible. Bottom end and mid-range power were useful enough not to need to reach for the gearlever too often – unless you were in a real rush. These days, the story isn’t quite the same. Advances in technology have ensured the latest spec 600s produce surprisingly good levels of drive at all rpm. This GSX-R isn’t quite that versatile.

To be fair to it though, as long as you’re not too lazy with your efforts and are willing to choose roughly the right gear, then pulling power at lower revs is acceptable. Just don’t expect a surge from as low as 3000rpm in fourth for example.

What perhaps emphasises the obligation to keep things more on the boil is the strength of the acceleration higher up the rev range. Get more towards 8-9000rpm and the serious pick up in pace is such that relatively speaking at least, the drive below it seems quite weak. It’s not. It just feels that way. Similarly, once you get to 10,000rpm and above, then the mid-range you’ve just considered healthy, will seem less so. The more revs you give this engine, the stronger it is.

Now whether this level of involvement is something you’ll feel happy with will be up to you. I didn’t find it too taxing, and as I’m normally more critical of engine character like this, I was surprised by my tolerance. I guess that’s because there were some compensations to this ‘shortcoming’. Firstly it makes the engine more involving and exciting to use, and when you do that and increase the pace of your riding, the benefits offered by the rest of the bike can be appreciated.

There’s no doubt, even though the Suzuki can’t boast the high specification components of the latest machines on the market, it’s still what I’d describe as a fine handling bike. Still light by current standards, the 600 also has manageable dimensions; it might well have a sporty riding position, but it’s relaxed enough to be reasonably comfortable. Unless you’re especially lanky, longer nonstop trips of around a couple of hours are not going to pose a serious problem. The same roomy nature provided by the sensible position of the seat and bars isn’t quite matched by the height of the footrests, but there’s still enough leverage to dominate the bike and flick it around with authority.

That’s something that’s easy to do, and it doesn’t take long to begin marvelling at the way you can devour corners. Direction changing needs little effort, and the quality of the brakes and suspension is such that choosing, altering, and holding lines is almost instinctive. With its lovely steering, the Suzuki is a pleasure to ride on more interesting back roads. The quality of its handling is definitely more modern than its 2002 vintage might have you assume.

Overall, the 600 is still a rewarding machine to ride. It looks stylish even if things like conventional fork and brake caliper design do ultimately date it a little. The best thing about it though is the fact that its capability will only set you back around just one quarter of the price of a new 600 sportsbike. Pick a good one like the one we tried, and you’ll be laughing all the way to the bank – especially if your financial base is at the end of a long and nicely twisting road.

What to Look For

Though there’s still a quite decent choice of early fuel-injected GSX-R600s on the market, you may have to travel to improve your chances of finding the best one. They’re strong and reliable bikes, however there is an important proviso to this being the case – they have to have been looked after. The required amount of TLC to keep them running sweetly isn’t anywhere near the level of something more exotic, but regular servicing and a good clean and polish when needed are important to ensure a long and happy life.

Bikes on the market fall into two distinct groups – those that have been tinkered with, and those that haven’t. Going for the latter types is the best advice. Machines in near standard trimwith evidence of being cared for inside and out, are easy to spot. The finish of the Suzuki is fairly good but you’ll quickly recognise any examples that have been neglected.

Look under the bike around the rear suspension linkages to see if the effects of a bucket and sponge are evident, and do the same with the front of the engine. If there’s heavy corrosion then you might want to reconsider buying, or at least haggling.

Proof of harder riding or less conscientious ownership will also be clear when you inspect the condition of the tyres and transmission more closely. Head bearing notchiness is normally a sign of stunt riding, though it can also come from doing many miles on the motorway.

Suzuki’s smallest GSX-R doesn’t have to be ridden flat out to be appreciated. As a summer hack, or something a bit more long-term, it can be a great value machine if you’re after something a little more involving...

Finish

Though generally good enough to withstand all weathers, some components like fasteners and brackets can corrode easily if the bike isn’t cleaned regularly. Riding in winter will require hosing the bike down after every ride. The condition of the GSX-R is a great guide to how often it’s been used, As well as an accurate indication of the care it’s received.

Fuelling

The GSX-R’s fuelling is pretty good, but power, fuel consumption and throttle response can be improved by fitting a Power Commander or remapping the ECU. Certainly the case if you fit an aftermarket end can.

Steering Damper

The standard fitment steering damper is unadjustable. However you can drain its oil and replace with different viscosity to alter its stiffness. Remove the blanking plug, pump out the old oil. Then introduce the new stuff by extending the empty damper with the blanking hole submerged in the new oil.

Touring

A taller screen is a quick and very effective way of improving long distance comfort.

Gearing

A cheap and effective way of making the 600’s engine feel a little livelier, and generally improve its overall throttle response, is to fit a one-tooth smaller front sprocket. Lowering the gearing in this way is effective and very cheap. Doing it yourself would cost a tenner. A dealer would ask £30-40. Speedo accuracy will be altered a little.

Engine

Higher mileage GSX-Rs shouldn’t be sniffed at. Earlier bikes are 15 years old now and have bound to have clocked up over 25,000-40,000 miles. However, as the Suzuki’s in-line four motor is a tough one, this isn’t an issue. Proof of servicing is still important to see though.

Suspension

One of the best points of the bike. But after 10 years of action both the forks and shock will benefit from a service and new damping oil. MCT Suspension can do the job – budget from £150 for the shock and from £200 for the forks.

Brakes

Pretty good, but there’s no doubt a caliper service, fitting braided lines and fresh pads could make a significant difference to their power and feel.

Prices

You can get hold of early 2001 models for less than £2000, but be warned – if you miss any serious faults with these, pricey repairs can be uneconomic. Take care, and you’ll find a good one – there’s a fair few still out there.

Thrilling to both look at and ride – that was the intention when the Italian-built Honda CB1000R was designed by senior Honda R&D man Paolo Cuccagna. Manufactured at its Atessa plant near Rome, Honda proudly championed the CB1000R’s Non-Japanese influence when it first went on sale in 2008, saying the streetbike was modelled and created by Europeans, for Europeans.

The Honda CB1000R was Honda’s answer to rising demand for naked bikes in the European market and though the Japanese wouldn’t admit it, the CB was a replacement for the Hornet 900. It differed from the Hornet by being of higher spec and delivering stronger performance.




Like the previous big-bore Hornet 900, the CB1000R features a similar frame to the smaller Hornet 600, in this case a cast-alloy mono backbone. And, as with the 900, the Honda CB1000R is powered by a CBR1000RR Fireblade engine, this time using the 998cc 2007-spec motor. Retuned for more mid-range power using different cams and pistons, its throttle bodies and inlet and exhaust ports are all smaller. The crankshaft and gearbox are also subtly different, as is the ECU. The CB1000R actually has more bottom end and mid-range power than the 2008 Fireblade sportsbike engine.

The chassis parts include fully adjustable, 2008-spec Fireblade forks reworked to suit the street-bike’s typical customers. Two models of the bike with differing specs of brakes were available. The Honda CB1000R C-ABS version featured linked anti-lock brakes, with the other variant equipped with non-ABS radial calipers. The bike has a single-sided swingarm, like the one fitted to the 2002 VFR800 V-TEC, controlled by a rising-rate monoshock.

Still on sale, the Honda has only changed in detail during its life. In 2012, thicker tapered handlebars and a prettier, redesigned LED headlight were fitted. And from 2014 all machines came with the C-ABS.

What's It Like To Ride ?

Despite its attractive Italian-influenced styling and the fact that it’s actually built near Rome, there’s still little doubt that the Honda CB1000R is a Japanese bike. Whether you think that’s a measure of praise or criticism will depend on your taste in bikes. It can take time for the CB to have any longer term effect on you, even if its excellent performance does impress you within minutes. If you’re looking for character, you might find it’s just a bit too polished, plush and refined.

From the moment you nestle into its seat, you can appreciate the streetbike’s obviously detailed and thoughtful design. Having one of those typical fatigue free, one-size-fits-all riding positions so typical of the marque, the 1000 immediately cossets you lovingly. Get under way and that impression of ease and comfort continues. The excellent behaviour of the suspension, engine and brakes is quickly apparent and better still is the overall poise and balance. Although the Honda CB1000R is clearly a machine with strong performance, it’s just as adept at doing feet-up U-turns in a car park as it is at tackling a twisting back-road at high speed.

There’s little need to rev the impressive motor hard to get it to deliver good, clean drive, even in the taller gears. Excellent low rpm manners allow very relaxed progress and short-shifting through the excellent gearbox brings all the speed you’ll need in the vast majority of circumstances. It’s an appreciably more flexible engine than the Fireblade’s. With a smooth and predictable increase in power available throughout the rev range, the Honda CB1000R’s engine is very practical and usable. Exploring unknown routes or coping with situations needing constant changes in speed is a simple and straightforward task.




Revving the motor harder brings very impressive results too. With a quoted 123bhp on tap, covering ground quickly isn’t much of a task for the Honda CB1000R, as you can imagine. Even when you’re using the engine harder, it still retains its good manners and composure with no troughs or peaks in the power delivery to present complications. This is a very strong but friendly powerplant with plenty of smoothness and sophistication.

The feeling of security, regardless of how much or how little of the engine power you’re sampling, is enhanced by the assured and predictable nature of the chassis. It really helps to make the 1000 the easy-going and unchallenging machine that it is. It is not actually that light but at a quoted 217 kilos in wet trim, it’s still a very manageable motorcycle and with a riding position that allows easy physical control, you always feel in charge of the Honda CB1000R. Showing it who’s boss, regardless of what speed you’re riding, is rarely taxing – though of course its naked design means longer periods at sustained high speed will end up feeling strenuous in time.



I’ve ridden the Honda CB1000R in a variety of weather conditions and environments and always felt right at home on it, trusting it implicitly to deal with any demands, either anticipated or otherwise. Big players in developing this level of faith are the highly impressive CBS linked brakes. Combined with the very effective ABS arrangement it’s difficult to do anything other than stop the Honda quickly and very safely. Quite apart from having plenty of power, the distribution of the pressure to the front and rear brakes is handled very competently. You have to bungle things quite badly to get either end to trigger the ABS. Though when that does occur, the system deals with affairs very promptly, almost instantaneously allowing the wheels and tyres to rotate and grip once more.




As is the case with many specific areas of the bike, components working really well in conjunction with others helps to assist their performance even more. That’s certainly true of the suspension boosting the ability of the brakes. Both forks and rear shock have a real quality feel to their action, offering that fine balance of comfort and control that only well set-up units can. They, in turn, allow the tyres to do an even better job thanks to the wheel control keeping them mated to the road so well. It’s a chain of excellent components working in almost perfect harmony and it epitomises the Honda’s overall design.

Listing and highlighting the numerous dynamic qualities of the stylish Honda CB1000R is one thing though… singing praises for the all-important wow-factor that makes the appeal of any bike feel more complete, is trickier. Whenever I rode it, I was always impressed with the Honda – not hard, as it does so much so well – but compared to some European rivals in the naked bike class, like a Triumph Speed Triple for instance, it can feel a little less endearing. To some that won’t be an issue, but in a group where character is often regarded as more of a priority, the ‘Honda-ness’ of the CB1000R might be viewed by others as a flaw. It might be a street-fighter, but it definitely fights by the Queensberry Rules.

What to Look For

Street-fighter-styled bikes have a reputation for attracting those with hooligan tendencies. The more refined Honda is different and generally owned by more sensible riders in their 40s and 50s. Enjoying the Honda CB1000R’s usability and versatility, they tend to look after their bikes well and have them serviced by dealers. The finish is robust and bikes in poor condition are rarely seen, so if you are interested in one of those, then bargain hard with the seller.

Early Honda CB1000R models finished in green aren’t well-liked, especially by dealers. Don’t pay as much for those and check to see if the paint is original. Several ’08 and ’09 bikes were repainted in more attractive colours. They can lower their value, particularly if the quality isn’t good or if the colour isn’t matchedwell. HRC replica paint jobs are easily the most popular and add as much as £200 to the value of the bike.

With a very good reputation for reliability, you’d be unlucky to have any problems with a Honda CB1000R. Mileages are generally low, as a typical annual total is only around 3000. Even so, a well-kept and regularly serviced bike will easily do 50,000 trouble-free miles or more. Normal checks will reveal plenty about the bike. Check how keenly the bike has been cleaned. Without a fender extender or rear hugger, bikes used in poor weather can get very dirty in hard-to-access places and their cleanliness gives you a good impression of the owner.




Just as good a guide are the sort of extras fitted – chain oilers, huggers and fly-screens suggest a more sensible owner. Garish paint schemes, stickers, and loud end-cans tell a different story. Though it’s a must do anyway, make more of a point of checking these bikes for harder use and crash damage. Scuffed hero blobs and bar ends, chewed up tyres and notchy head bearings are giveaways.

With its fairly strong performance, running costs can be higher if you ride the Honda harder. But all consumables last well withmore sensible use. Up to 60mpg is possible with care. Check the service records carefully. Most bikes are dealer serviced, but as it’s easy to service at home and some owners choose this option. You need to see receipts to verify this work. Valve clearances should be done at 16,000 miles, but often don’t need adjusting.

Specs :

Engine : 998cc, Liquid Cooled, DOHC 16-Valve, Inline Four
Power : 123 HP (92kW) @10.000 RPM
Torque : 74lb-ft (100N.m)@8.000 RPM
Gearbox : 6-speed
Final Drive : Chain
Frame : Cast Alloy Backbone
Front Suspension : 43mm Inverted Telescopic forks, Fully adjustable
Rear Suspension : Rising-rate monoshock, Adjustable preload and rebound damping
Front Brakes : Twin 310mm discs, Three Piston C-ABS calipers;
Rear Brakes : 256mm disc, Twin Piston C-ABS
Front Tyres : 120/70-17
Rear Tyres : 180/55-17
Seat Height : 825 mm
Kerb Weight: 217 Kg
Fuel Capacity: 17 Litres



Values : £3500 - £8500

The £2000 Sportsbike. It’s not a rare beast but it’s a complex sector nowadays because you’re nipped in a pincer movement by older bikes such as the Kawasaki ZXR750 rising in price as they become classics and newer bikes losing value as they head to obscurity.

Very old bikes such as ZXR750s and early Suzuki GSX-R750s,whichwere unloved and nigh-onworthless five years ago, are nowback on-trend. There are still bargains around though – just beware dealers sticking enormous, speculative price tags on machines that are just long in the tooth, billing them as “future classics”.




As ever, think of the way the market works. Obviously, the newer, flasher, fancier models cost more. But take the less glamorous options and you can clean up. So an Aprilia RSV Mille is just as Italian and even faster than a Ducati 996, but will come in at less than half the price of the equivalent Duke. Similarly, a 1999 Kawasaki ZX-9R is pretty much the match of a ’99 FireBlade, but the Honda still commands a premium. Finally consider what you need.

Starting out? Go for a 600. You’ll just get an early R6, which is proper modern sporting class. Aiming for trackday use only? Consider a newer damaged/ repairable machine and a trailer, for the same cash as a road-ready bike.

Five of the Best

1998-2001 Aprilia RSV Mille

Prior to the RSV, Aprilias were small bikes. How could they possibly take on Ducati? Like a boss, was the answer. Rotax made the RSV’s lump and it was a corker. Fast forward nearly 20 years and early RSVs are creeping back up in price, but a good one is a genuine bargain.

Spec : 998cc 60° V-twin, 165mph, 189kg, 128bhp, 79lb.ft

Expect to pay : £1995-£2500

1998-2001 Honda CBR600

By the end of the century, the CBR600F was getting beaten up on track by sportier competition. But the CBR, boosted by its frame and engine revamp, still had the package to top the class on the road. It’s still no slouch on track and has great reliability: ideal first cheap sportster.

Spec : 599cc inline four, 150mph, 170kg, 109bhp, 48lb.ft

Expect to pay : £1850-£2300

1998-2000 Suzuki GSX-R750

750s may be a dead class in terms of racing, but they still make a lot of sense. A pleasant chunk of extra grunt over a 600, yet without the crazy power of a 1000, a sorted 750 sportsbike is A Good Thing. For this cash, we’d plump for a GSX-R. The SRAD is a modern classic.

Spec : 749cc inline four, 165mph, 179kg, 135bhp, 60lb.ft

Expect to pay : £2000-£2400

1998-2000 Kawasaki ZX-9R

The earlier B-model is more of a high-speed straightline blaster, but by 1998, C-model 9Rs were catching up with Honda’s FireBlade. Huge power, sound handling and some comfort make the Ninja an excellent choice. If you can afford a post-2000 E model, so much the better.

Spec : 899cc inline four, 170mph, 183kg, 141bhp, 75lb.ft

Expect to pay : £1900-£2300

1999-2000 Yamaha YZF-R6

It appeared a year after the R1 blew away the FireBlade, but the R6 didn’t transform the 600 class in the same way. However, a decent rider will keep up with more modern kit on the road. Revvy engine can be tiresome on motorways, but the brakes and handling make up for that.

Spec : 599cc inline four, 160mph, 169kg, 120bhp, 50lb.ft

Expect to pay : £1900-£2400

Five Things to Look For

DAMAGE

Cheap sportsbikes are like pitbull terriers in rescue homes: they rarely attract the best owners. So a £2k R6 or ZX-6R is liable to have been in some inexperienced but ‘enthusiastic’ hands. Look carefully for serious stuff like cracked frames, buckled rims and bent forks. Expect scuffed plastic at this price point, but factor it into your costings.

“FUELLING UPGRADE”

Bikes this age will have been relentlessly fiddled-with, and since many are pre-fuel-injection, there can be all manner of horrors in the carburettor jetting. Carbs rarely go properly wrong, though, so if you find a poor runner, chip £300 off the price and take it to a decent dyno shop to fix.

TYRES

Good rubber makes a difference on any bike, but even more so with sportsbikes where you’ll be wanting to lean over lots, brake hard, and get on the gas with gusto. If you’re buying from a dealer, make new rubber your first point of haggling.

SUSPENSION

As with tyres, sportsbikes – by definition – need better suspension performance than tourers or commuters. Look for leaking or tired forks and shocks, and check that any adjusters are moving freely.

EXHAUSTS

Corrosion and noise junkies will usually have seen off the stock exhaust system. A good stainless replacement with a legal silencer and maybe even a removable baffle for trackdays is the gold standard. Ear-splitting bodged cans are a bad sign.

The best of 2015’s pre-loved beauties. Or just pre-loved in the case of the Multistrada...

2003 Ducati Multistrada 1000

Ducati’s first Multistrada didn’t compute. We were still getting over a sports obsession, so a tall odd-looking all-rounder from a firm loved for beautiful race-reps left us cold. But biking’s changed. Now road-biased crossovers are the rage, and the Multi makes sense: you get traditional Ducati engineering (steel trellis, single-sider, soulful V-twin) with road manners, usable grunt and reliability. They start at just £2k. From 2005 you get better mirrors, sidestand and seat, and optional touring screens.

Price : £1900

2005 Harley-Davidson Sportster 1200

Sportsters have been the best-selling cruiser for yonks, so ample used choice makes almost five grand for a basic decade-old cruiser seem salty. But H-D depreciation is so s-l-o-w and they’re a super-safe buy – especially as traditional pared-down bikes are in trend and Harleys are hipper than ever. It’s particularly true of the Sportster with its iconic silhouette, satisfying authenticity and surprising usability. Get the reliability of a 2005-on model and go 1200, not 883. Big is best, right?

Price : £4800

2013 Yamaha MT-09

There’s no better indicator of popularity than simple sales figures and in 2014 – its first full year on sale – the Yamaha MT-09 was Europe’s third best-selling big motorcycle. Not bad for a fresh model, but entirely understandable when you sample its engaging, instant, flexible 847cc triple, slender build and capacity-defying agility. MT-09s are keenly-priced new, so that means secondhand steals. 18-month-old bikes with insignificant miles start at £5000.

Price : £5000

2013 Honda NC700X

A two-year-old NC700X with full history costs around £2900. That’s a whopping 55% saving after just 24 months. It will have been used. A lot – superb efficiency and the ability to store a helmet in the dummy tank means popularity with commuters and dispatchers. But miles aren’t a worry. Quality is high, and the twin is half a Jazz car unit, low stressed, and runs and runs. In fact, go for one that’s done 30,000 miles – that way the pricey 24k service will have been someone else’s expense.

Price : £2900

2015 Honda VFR1200F

Launched mere moments after Kawasaki’s gizmo-laden 1400GTR in 2010, the VFR1200’s lack of electronic widgets meant it was dismissed by fickle journalists. However, the silky-fast Honda makes up for absent toys with something far more desirable – and that’s classy engineering with a sublime finish. The 1237cc V4 whirrs sweetly on bimbles yet has soaring top-end thrills. Sweet handling and plush suspension deliver a blend of comfort and control, and the bar-seat-peg triangle is cock-on.

Then there’s the detail – supple handlebar grips, pin mirrors, robust switchgear. With the kind of quality responsible for Honda’s reputation (not many bike’s have a standard three-year warranty), the VFR doesn’t need to hide behind a veneer of trinkets. And yet despite being the only genuine, big-bore, contemporary sports tourer, used 1200s are stupidcheap. List price is £13k, but used 15-plate bikes are nine grand (with two years warranty left). Four-year-old with accessories? £6k. Ridiculous.

Price : £9000